FAQ
What Can I Expect the Price to be for a Miniature Bull Terrier Puppy?
The Average Price of a Miniature Bull Terrier puppy falls in the range of $2500-4500 for well-bred, purebred puppies from reputable breeders. I price my puppies accordingly for the amount of health testing invested in the puppies' parents, the time we dedicate and experience we have to give individual attention and specific, professional positive-reinforcement training to each individual puppy, and to balance out the expenses required to have a successful litter (click here for a list of expenses relevant to breeding a single litter). I do not sell puppies from the same litter for different prices (ie; sex, color, pet/show quality, etc). Please be aware that if you are looking for a bargain price, you become more and more likely to be purchasing from a non-reputable breeder the lower the price falls below $2000. This is not an inexpensive breed; most litters must be conceived via artificial insemination and whelped via Cesarean-section. It is also worth noting that when purchasing a puppy from a reputable breeder, you are also paying for a lifetime - and then some - of their wisdom and experience in this breed and as dog fanciers/breeders/exhibitors/trainers, etc... It is an investment in the future of the breed and the time and expenses dedicated by the breeder, as well as helps support the breeder and the breed community's livelihood so that they may continue to work hard to improve or preserve the breed we all love.
How Does Puppy Placement Work? Why don't you sell puppies at birth based on my preferred color and sex? And why don't you sell puppies on first-come-first-serve basis?
If you are interested in a Bantam puppy, the first step is to fill out my Puppy Inquiry. You'll notice that my questions are thorough and open-ended. My reasoning for this is to better get to know you and your family; I want to know how you think, what you think of, what is important to you, and what isn't, among other things. Please note that the inquiry questions do NOT have right answers, the more descriptive you can be, the better! My main priority is to pair the right temperament with the right home/family/lifestyle. Not all puppies are created equal and while there are often similarities among littermates and among close relatives in a breeder's line, there are intricate and specific personality traits and many attributes present throughout the puppies' first weeks of life that clue me in as to what they will be like as adults. This also means that you may not know if you're getting a puppy or any specific puppy until they're 8-10 weeks old, and it is for this reason I do not take deposits on puppies. I will ALWAYS prioritize keeping my puppy people updated throughout their time with me, the litter may even have multiple options for dogs that will fit best with a certain family, and in that circumstance the choice is almost always clear to the owners between the two. I also understand that everyone has their own preferences, and I will do my best to accommodate, but there is no special order form to create a custom puppy to suit everything you're looking for. While I do keep in mind those who have been waiting longer than others for their perfect puppy, if the puppies in front of me do not match what you're looking for, I will not sell you a puppy (see below).
I'm looking for a puppy right now, do you have any? Why can't you guarantee me a puppy from your next litter(s)?
I have an ongoing wait list as I accept new puppy inquiries at all times, not only when I have litters. This means I have a number of homes waiting for their perfect puppy. It is a process and worth waiting for the right puppy from the right breeder! Please understand that the right breeder *for you* may be one of the most important criteria when looking for your next puppy. I, as a breeder, am committed to each and every single one of my puppies from before birth to long after their death, meaning to say that you are stuck with me when you are chosen as a home for a Bantam puppy. As much as I want to produce the best puppy for every fantastic family that comes into my life in a decent time frame, I simply cannot. Miniature Bull Terriers don't have the best fertility of all the breeds and often have smaller litter sizes, this means in an average litter I only get to choose 3-4 homes out of the multiple dozens of options that I have waiting. I understand that when you're ready for a puppy you are READY for a puppy, and waiting can be one of the hardest things to do! However, I have limited number of breeding bitches and a limited number of litters per year and we do NOT breed for demand. This also means that I don't ever have puppies "on hand" for those looking for available puppies at any given time. Please get in touch with us to get onto a waiting list (start by filling out our Puppy Inquiry) to be considered for upcoming puppies. Patience will ensure you the right Bantam puppy to fit your family.
How long can I expect to wait for my Bantam Puppy?
The short answer; it varies. The long answer; it varies because... My bitches tend to have long cycles, this means that instead of the average 6 months between being fertile/breedable, they often are 8-12 months between cycles. Once they are in heat, they are typically become fertile within the first 14 days of bleeding, and there is only a 72-hour time frame in which their eggs are receptive to sperm to be fertilized, which happens starting 48 hours after the bitch ovulates. Once they have been bred there is a pregnancy ultrasound done 28-35 days after ovulation, this will not guarantee an accurate count of puppies, however it will confirm that they are (or aren't) pregnant, and give a general idea of how many to expect, usually it looks like "more than 2" or "5 or more," and nothing more specific than that. Puppies' bones do not start to ossify (become bones from cartilage) until up to 14 days prior to their due date, so within the final week of pregnancy, around day 55-60, a radiograph will confirm the total number of puppies to be expected. Gestation in the dog is 62-64 days, and while I prefer to attempt natural whelping, this breed is often scheduled for C-sections in advance. I often will confirm with my veterinarian that they are available for a C-section on a specific day, and all precautions are met to ensure that the timing is safe and accurate and neither the bitch nor her puppies will be in danger whether by being too early, too late, or an emergency. Combine that with the fact that Miniature Bull Terriers, on average, have litters of 5 puppies or fewer, and the many wonderful homes I already have waiting, I cannot accurately guess exactly how long you will have to wait for your particular puppy, I only ask that you keep this in the back of your mind.
What Health Testing Do You Perform? Why do you perform additional tests not listed for CHIC requirements?
I complete all of the following health testing prior to breeding for both females and males. All puppies will have testing done with me before they go to their new homes, both DNA testing, which includes PLL, LAD, and LP status, as well as BAER testing for hearing, CAER testing for eyes, and preliminary cardiac evaluation between 8-10 weeks of age. In addition, each puppy will have its DNA submitted to AKC DNA program, this is for future parentage testing and verification. A full Congenital/Advanced Heart Echocardiogram with Color Doppler can be completed at 12 months of age at the earliest, and should be repeated yearly to monitor any age-related congenital heart disease. Urine Protein:Creatinine Ratio is to provide an estimate of the amount of protein lost in the urine, can be tested at any age via urine sample. In addition to those tests, I also perform Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) screening for Hip/Elbow Dysplasia, and Shoulder Osteochondrosis, these require radiographs taken after 2 years of age (24 months) for official completion. Patellar Luxation is a manual palpation performed at 12 months of age or older, though can be evaluated between 6-8 weeks of age, unofficially. I also have my own dogs/breeding dogs evaluated for Dentition, which is the count of permanent adult teeth, this is done to keep track of missing teeth/extra teeth which seems to be common in the breed, though not tracked. I will always do the health testing that I can when the puppies are with me, though since some of the official OFA tests and radiographs cannot be completed until 24 months old, it is a requirement that the owners complete that testing once the dog is of appropriate age, this is at the owner's expense (see below). Another topic of interest for me is allergy testing, though as of the time writing this I have not completed any. It is a future possibility as I am prioritizing improving the overall health of the breed by promoting healthy breeding practices and breeding healthy, health tested dogs. Any specific questions you may have on how to complete this testing or what all is required, please ask. :)
I just want a pet, why do you require all puppies, even with no intention to be bred, to complete certain health testing? Why is this at my expense and not yours?
As a responsible breeder, I am committed to knowing what I am producing, and not only in the breeding dogs that I keep or co-own. I want all puppies that I produce to complete health testing for the public OFA database so that I can track what Bantam produces, as well as make sound future breeding decisions based on the results of parents, siblings, etc. I believe if a puppy buyer expects their responsible breeder to complete health testing of breeding dogs, it is fair to have the same expectations upheld for and met by the responsible puppy owner.
I have no intention of breeding my dog, why do you require they stay intact for a minimum of 24 months?
Testosterone in Males and Estrogen in Females are both absolutely essential hormones for the complete physical and mental development of all dogs. Early spay and neuter attributes to delayed closure of the puppy's growth plates, leading to disproportionate natural growth resulting in a non-genetically-determined adult composition of structure and increasing the likelihood of a ruptured/torn cranial cruciate ligament (CCL), patellar luxation, and hip dysplasia due to the abnormal strain caused by increased length in certain bones. Not only does it effect physical growth patterns, it also has an effect on the dog's mental health, often attributing to insecurity, noise sensitivity, fear reactivity and aggression, among other things. The incidence of inappropriate/socially awkward behaviors such as mounting were actually increased in males who were neutered at a younger age. I require ALL puppies to remain intact/unaltered for their first 24 months for their mental and physical well-being, ***unless an agreement to alter prior to the 2nd birthday is in place between the owner and myself and/or because of an emergency health concern***. In the event that a puppy is altered before their 2nd birthday without an agreement, my health guarantee is considered voided. Responsible pet ownership is not synonymous with spaying and neutering your dog, it's much more about appropriate management. Please refer to the Spay/Neuter section on my Links page for additional information on this requirement.
Do you remove Dewclaws?
No. The incidence of injury to a dewclaw as an adult is minimal, especially compared respectively to the damage done from removing the digit at a young age. Removing the dewclaw greatly increases the risk of chronic carpal arthritis, as well as injuries to elbow, shoulder, and toes due to the compensation of not having the one digit that is the support and prevention of torque to the dog's limbs. There are five tendons (which attach to two muscles) attached to the dewclaw that each serve a different function in movement. Each of those tendons and muscles can, and often do, atrophy when the dewclaw is removed. I've also noticed in my own personal dogs and others in observation, the dewclaw is often used to hold a chew bone in place, or to grip a rock when climbing, or to plant into the ground on a pivot foot in order to turn quickly (prevent torque). So, no, it's not a useless digit, and removing it to prevent injury only exacerbates others.
What Toys/Chews do you Recommend?
Benebone, hands down, for tough chewers. They come in many different shapes and styles and they last quite a while . You do have to keep an eye on the wear and switch out for a new one every once in a while. Overall, they last months and I trust my heaviest chewers with history of foreign body surgery to have them in their crate at all times and unattended. The only shape I would not personally recommend is the Dental Chew, it has the potential for lower jaw getting stuck in the hole - this design HAS been updated to have a smaller hole, though it still is a concern for me, personally. That being said, dogs do have preferences and may only prefer this design over the others - please supervise the first time your MBT experiences a new toy to confirm that it is safe for your individual dog. I've had some success with Nylabones of varying styles, though the Benebone is the better option all across the board. I recommend the Wishbone shape, the Stick, and the Zaggler. The Pawplexer is decent, but I've also had the middle rubber part chewed out, and luckily not swallowed, but worth noting. And if you're looking for a bully stick holder (use caution with bully sticks as I've had them swallowed mostly whole and they do pose a choking hazard for this breed), I recommend the WestPaw Quizl. As for sizing, we tend to go with the largest options, regardless of the size of the dog... I mean it when I say they have strong jaws! Please do NOT use Antlers as chew toys, it is very common for them to damage teeth, both in puppy deciduous teeth and in adult permanent teeth, or break of chips and cause damage to the esophagus or the stomach. Another toy that's bully proof is the Chuckit Ball! I've found the Chuckit Squeaker Ball is a fan favorite and the squeaker doesn't die as fast as it does in other toys.
***Always exercise caution when introducing a new toy for the first time and please supervise your puppy/dog while they interact with it for the first couple of days.***
What Diet Do You Recommend?
We feed a balanced diet of Prey Model Raw, grinds only. My experience with this breed is that they truly don't chew their food, so we feed pre-mixed, pre-proportioned, pre-ground meals out of slow-feed bowls. Bonus enrichment for them when we re-freeze their meals into their slow-feed bowl. There are benefits to feeding raw and when done right can actually save you money in the long run over a high-quality brand of kibble. We are lucky to have access to a restaurant distributor and can often get our meals to under $2/lb, though we do a "meat sorting weekend" once every 8 weeks where we process through 1000+ lbs of meat for our multiple dog household. We do offer to make dog food/meals for you to purchase (local homes only) from us, if that is something that interests you. If you are not local but are interested in feeding raw, the companies I recommend are Raw Feeding Miami and Primal. I had great luck with Raw Feeding Miami, though Primal is more readily available in natural pet food stores in the freezer section. Be sure that if you are ordering, you are specifically ordering a pre-mixed correct ratio of bone:meat:organ and not JUST meat grinds (click here), this is the important part of feeding raw. Note: Most Primal frozen meals are pre-mixed. Also be aware that Miniature Bull Terriers have VERY strong jaws, and not always strong teeth... So when most information online sources recommend and provide "raw meaty bones" or "recreational chews," they may be too tough for Terrier teeth/jaw strength and I have had my dogs fracture teeth on them before (see above for recommendations for Terrier-tough chew toys). If you are going to be feeding kibble, I would recommend Purina ProPlan (sensitive skin), Fromm, GO!, and Orijen. Keep in mind, also, that my foundation line tends to have sensitivities to beef, so if they are on beef and develop red/yeasty skin or hives, the first place to start would be to switch proteins. :) I've had great luck with Pork, Lamb, Fish, Chicken/Turkey, though some lines have sensitivities to poultry as well.
Do you offer a health guarantee?
Yes! While I will always do my best to increase the odds of bringing the healthiest puppies into this world, genetics always make the rules and some anomalies will pop up from time to time. My contract covers more in-depth information, which we can absolutely go over when we're talking about your specific puppy... The gist is that I am dedicated to my breeding program and if any health concerns pop up, I will do my best to make it right. Whether that be taking a puppy back (which I am willing to do at any time for any reason), or offering the next puppy at a discounted price. We can and will work together on this if any inherited health issues are diagnosed. Please know that I will always be willing to work with you around anything that happens with your Bantam puppy, I care deeply for each one (and their family) as if they were still my own - I am dedicated to being responsible for any and all of the puppies that I create, and that commitment is for life and beyond.
Do you sell dogs with breeding rights?
At this time, no. I am still building my foundation for my line and I am dedicated to creating a solid style and type that is "Bantam" and until I am happy with the consistency of my program, I will not sell dogs with full breeding rights, this goes for males and females. If you are interested in a show/breeding dog, I am happy to discuss the terms of Co-Ownership of a Bantam puppy, otherwise puppies are sold with Limited Registration. I am always willing to discuss further and potentially make exceptions so please feel free to ask if you have any specific questions or concerns regarding breeding dogs.
What is a Co-Ownership? Do you Co-Own all of your puppies?
For all intents and purposes, a co-owned dog is YOUR dog, my name is only listed as secondary owner on their registration certificate. This means that your dog can compete in conformation events and that I can show/handle your dog under owner-handler if at any time we discuss a show that does not work for both of us. The main intent for me to co-own Bantam dogs is to maintain access to be able to breed to dogs that I cannot keep, as the gene pool is already small and the space in my house is limited. If you are willing to commit to the benefit of the future of this breed that we love, I do place priority for people who are willing to work with me on this. I understand that "co-own" can be an intimidating phrase, so please feel free to chat with me on this, I'm an open book! In the end it is up to the owner on whether they are willing to co-own or not, and it has to be decided before the puppy is registered (if you choose not to co-own, your puppy will be registered with limited registration).
What is Limited Registration?
Limited Registration is, in essence, for any owner that wishes for a pet only. You can compete in sports other than conformation with a puppy/dog who is registered with limited, and puppies born of a dog or bitch with limited registration are ineligible to be registered with AKC. If you choose to not have a co-ownership with me, your puppy will be registered with limited registration - this is to protect the breed from dogs who do not meet the breed standard in some way or another and should not be reproduced. This does not mean that if you do not wish to co-own that you will get the "worst quality puppy" of a litter, as above all else I am concerned about the puppy fitting with the person. It does, however, mean that there will be priority placed to a family who may be willing to co-own who meets the same personality criteria to fit with any certain puppy. Please feel free to ask me any clarifying questions you may have, as I understand it can be intimidating to understand the difference. Also be assured that I want good homes no matter what and even if the best home is unwilling to enter into a co-ownership with me, that person is more likely to get the best puppy than an average home who would be willing to co-own.
How Do I Become a Member of the Miniature Bull Terrier Club of America (MBTCA)?
First, check out the info page on the MBTCA website. You will need to complete and submit an application, as well as have a sponsor submit a sponsorship form (contact me if you are interested in applying for membership and we can discuss sponsorship). Please note that with any home accepted for a Bantam puppy, I am more than happy to sponsor you, all you need to do is let me know that you're interested in becoming a member! This breed community is one of the most welcoming groups I've personally ever been a part of, and I would encourage anyone interested in joining to support our breed by becoming an official member! From what I have experienced, a vast majority of our club members are aging, and it's up to the new generation to keep the ball rolling and advocate for our wonderful, beloved breed, and the fastest, easiest way to do so is by getting involved in any way that you can.
How Do I Get Into Dog Sports and Where Do I Start?
That all depends on your interests! I, myself, have dabbled in quite a few different venues and some are more fun for me than others, for all kinds of reasons. For example, I tried an agility foundations class, and while it was enjoyable, I just don't necessarily enjoy that sport specifically. However, sports that really allow the dog to use their natural instincts such as barn hunt, earth dog, even nosework and fastcat, those sports are really fun to me as I truly enjoy watching a dog do what it does naturally! We have also dabbled in sports such as rally, dock diving, weight pull, and others, and all of it is just dependent on what I like about it and what I'm looking to pursue because of my enjoyment and willingness to add it as a time commitment. Why must I explain all of this? In truth, to tell you that, really, it's up to you! There are several resources available at AKC's main web address, and this specific link on Getting Started in Dog Sports and Events, and part of it is doing your own research to find out what's out there! Please feel free to reach out to me directly for some tips and tricks and places to start looking, as it's not always about what you know, but often more about what you don't know and seeking that information can be challenging. See general links below on some of the sports that we have enjoyed competing in:
Conformation
Agility
Rally
Earthdog
FASTCat
Nosework
Barn Hunt
Dock Diving
It's all about having FUN with your dog, if you or your dog(s) are not enjoying it, don't do it. :)
The Average Price of a Miniature Bull Terrier puppy falls in the range of $2500-4500 for well-bred, purebred puppies from reputable breeders. I price my puppies accordingly for the amount of health testing invested in the puppies' parents, the time we dedicate and experience we have to give individual attention and specific, professional positive-reinforcement training to each individual puppy, and to balance out the expenses required to have a successful litter (click here for a list of expenses relevant to breeding a single litter). I do not sell puppies from the same litter for different prices (ie; sex, color, pet/show quality, etc). Please be aware that if you are looking for a bargain price, you become more and more likely to be purchasing from a non-reputable breeder the lower the price falls below $2000. This is not an inexpensive breed; most litters must be conceived via artificial insemination and whelped via Cesarean-section. It is also worth noting that when purchasing a puppy from a reputable breeder, you are also paying for a lifetime - and then some - of their wisdom and experience in this breed and as dog fanciers/breeders/exhibitors/trainers, etc... It is an investment in the future of the breed and the time and expenses dedicated by the breeder, as well as helps support the breeder and the breed community's livelihood so that they may continue to work hard to improve or preserve the breed we all love.
How Does Puppy Placement Work? Why don't you sell puppies at birth based on my preferred color and sex? And why don't you sell puppies on first-come-first-serve basis?
If you are interested in a Bantam puppy, the first step is to fill out my Puppy Inquiry. You'll notice that my questions are thorough and open-ended. My reasoning for this is to better get to know you and your family; I want to know how you think, what you think of, what is important to you, and what isn't, among other things. Please note that the inquiry questions do NOT have right answers, the more descriptive you can be, the better! My main priority is to pair the right temperament with the right home/family/lifestyle. Not all puppies are created equal and while there are often similarities among littermates and among close relatives in a breeder's line, there are intricate and specific personality traits and many attributes present throughout the puppies' first weeks of life that clue me in as to what they will be like as adults. This also means that you may not know if you're getting a puppy or any specific puppy until they're 8-10 weeks old, and it is for this reason I do not take deposits on puppies. I will ALWAYS prioritize keeping my puppy people updated throughout their time with me, the litter may even have multiple options for dogs that will fit best with a certain family, and in that circumstance the choice is almost always clear to the owners between the two. I also understand that everyone has their own preferences, and I will do my best to accommodate, but there is no special order form to create a custom puppy to suit everything you're looking for. While I do keep in mind those who have been waiting longer than others for their perfect puppy, if the puppies in front of me do not match what you're looking for, I will not sell you a puppy (see below).
I'm looking for a puppy right now, do you have any? Why can't you guarantee me a puppy from your next litter(s)?
I have an ongoing wait list as I accept new puppy inquiries at all times, not only when I have litters. This means I have a number of homes waiting for their perfect puppy. It is a process and worth waiting for the right puppy from the right breeder! Please understand that the right breeder *for you* may be one of the most important criteria when looking for your next puppy. I, as a breeder, am committed to each and every single one of my puppies from before birth to long after their death, meaning to say that you are stuck with me when you are chosen as a home for a Bantam puppy. As much as I want to produce the best puppy for every fantastic family that comes into my life in a decent time frame, I simply cannot. Miniature Bull Terriers don't have the best fertility of all the breeds and often have smaller litter sizes, this means in an average litter I only get to choose 3-4 homes out of the multiple dozens of options that I have waiting. I understand that when you're ready for a puppy you are READY for a puppy, and waiting can be one of the hardest things to do! However, I have limited number of breeding bitches and a limited number of litters per year and we do NOT breed for demand. This also means that I don't ever have puppies "on hand" for those looking for available puppies at any given time. Please get in touch with us to get onto a waiting list (start by filling out our Puppy Inquiry) to be considered for upcoming puppies. Patience will ensure you the right Bantam puppy to fit your family.
How long can I expect to wait for my Bantam Puppy?
The short answer; it varies. The long answer; it varies because... My bitches tend to have long cycles, this means that instead of the average 6 months between being fertile/breedable, they often are 8-12 months between cycles. Once they are in heat, they are typically become fertile within the first 14 days of bleeding, and there is only a 72-hour time frame in which their eggs are receptive to sperm to be fertilized, which happens starting 48 hours after the bitch ovulates. Once they have been bred there is a pregnancy ultrasound done 28-35 days after ovulation, this will not guarantee an accurate count of puppies, however it will confirm that they are (or aren't) pregnant, and give a general idea of how many to expect, usually it looks like "more than 2" or "5 or more," and nothing more specific than that. Puppies' bones do not start to ossify (become bones from cartilage) until up to 14 days prior to their due date, so within the final week of pregnancy, around day 55-60, a radiograph will confirm the total number of puppies to be expected. Gestation in the dog is 62-64 days, and while I prefer to attempt natural whelping, this breed is often scheduled for C-sections in advance. I often will confirm with my veterinarian that they are available for a C-section on a specific day, and all precautions are met to ensure that the timing is safe and accurate and neither the bitch nor her puppies will be in danger whether by being too early, too late, or an emergency. Combine that with the fact that Miniature Bull Terriers, on average, have litters of 5 puppies or fewer, and the many wonderful homes I already have waiting, I cannot accurately guess exactly how long you will have to wait for your particular puppy, I only ask that you keep this in the back of your mind.
What Health Testing Do You Perform? Why do you perform additional tests not listed for CHIC requirements?
I complete all of the following health testing prior to breeding for both females and males. All puppies will have testing done with me before they go to their new homes, both DNA testing, which includes PLL, LAD, and LP status, as well as BAER testing for hearing, CAER testing for eyes, and preliminary cardiac evaluation between 8-10 weeks of age. In addition, each puppy will have its DNA submitted to AKC DNA program, this is for future parentage testing and verification. A full Congenital/Advanced Heart Echocardiogram with Color Doppler can be completed at 12 months of age at the earliest, and should be repeated yearly to monitor any age-related congenital heart disease. Urine Protein:Creatinine Ratio is to provide an estimate of the amount of protein lost in the urine, can be tested at any age via urine sample. In addition to those tests, I also perform Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) screening for Hip/Elbow Dysplasia, and Shoulder Osteochondrosis, these require radiographs taken after 2 years of age (24 months) for official completion. Patellar Luxation is a manual palpation performed at 12 months of age or older, though can be evaluated between 6-8 weeks of age, unofficially. I also have my own dogs/breeding dogs evaluated for Dentition, which is the count of permanent adult teeth, this is done to keep track of missing teeth/extra teeth which seems to be common in the breed, though not tracked. I will always do the health testing that I can when the puppies are with me, though since some of the official OFA tests and radiographs cannot be completed until 24 months old, it is a requirement that the owners complete that testing once the dog is of appropriate age, this is at the owner's expense (see below). Another topic of interest for me is allergy testing, though as of the time writing this I have not completed any. It is a future possibility as I am prioritizing improving the overall health of the breed by promoting healthy breeding practices and breeding healthy, health tested dogs. Any specific questions you may have on how to complete this testing or what all is required, please ask. :)
I just want a pet, why do you require all puppies, even with no intention to be bred, to complete certain health testing? Why is this at my expense and not yours?
As a responsible breeder, I am committed to knowing what I am producing, and not only in the breeding dogs that I keep or co-own. I want all puppies that I produce to complete health testing for the public OFA database so that I can track what Bantam produces, as well as make sound future breeding decisions based on the results of parents, siblings, etc. I believe if a puppy buyer expects their responsible breeder to complete health testing of breeding dogs, it is fair to have the same expectations upheld for and met by the responsible puppy owner.
I have no intention of breeding my dog, why do you require they stay intact for a minimum of 24 months?
Testosterone in Males and Estrogen in Females are both absolutely essential hormones for the complete physical and mental development of all dogs. Early spay and neuter attributes to delayed closure of the puppy's growth plates, leading to disproportionate natural growth resulting in a non-genetically-determined adult composition of structure and increasing the likelihood of a ruptured/torn cranial cruciate ligament (CCL), patellar luxation, and hip dysplasia due to the abnormal strain caused by increased length in certain bones. Not only does it effect physical growth patterns, it also has an effect on the dog's mental health, often attributing to insecurity, noise sensitivity, fear reactivity and aggression, among other things. The incidence of inappropriate/socially awkward behaviors such as mounting were actually increased in males who were neutered at a younger age. I require ALL puppies to remain intact/unaltered for their first 24 months for their mental and physical well-being, ***unless an agreement to alter prior to the 2nd birthday is in place between the owner and myself and/or because of an emergency health concern***. In the event that a puppy is altered before their 2nd birthday without an agreement, my health guarantee is considered voided. Responsible pet ownership is not synonymous with spaying and neutering your dog, it's much more about appropriate management. Please refer to the Spay/Neuter section on my Links page for additional information on this requirement.
Do you remove Dewclaws?
No. The incidence of injury to a dewclaw as an adult is minimal, especially compared respectively to the damage done from removing the digit at a young age. Removing the dewclaw greatly increases the risk of chronic carpal arthritis, as well as injuries to elbow, shoulder, and toes due to the compensation of not having the one digit that is the support and prevention of torque to the dog's limbs. There are five tendons (which attach to two muscles) attached to the dewclaw that each serve a different function in movement. Each of those tendons and muscles can, and often do, atrophy when the dewclaw is removed. I've also noticed in my own personal dogs and others in observation, the dewclaw is often used to hold a chew bone in place, or to grip a rock when climbing, or to plant into the ground on a pivot foot in order to turn quickly (prevent torque). So, no, it's not a useless digit, and removing it to prevent injury only exacerbates others.
What Toys/Chews do you Recommend?
Benebone, hands down, for tough chewers. They come in many different shapes and styles and they last quite a while . You do have to keep an eye on the wear and switch out for a new one every once in a while. Overall, they last months and I trust my heaviest chewers with history of foreign body surgery to have them in their crate at all times and unattended. The only shape I would not personally recommend is the Dental Chew, it has the potential for lower jaw getting stuck in the hole - this design HAS been updated to have a smaller hole, though it still is a concern for me, personally. That being said, dogs do have preferences and may only prefer this design over the others - please supervise the first time your MBT experiences a new toy to confirm that it is safe for your individual dog. I've had some success with Nylabones of varying styles, though the Benebone is the better option all across the board. I recommend the Wishbone shape, the Stick, and the Zaggler. The Pawplexer is decent, but I've also had the middle rubber part chewed out, and luckily not swallowed, but worth noting. And if you're looking for a bully stick holder (use caution with bully sticks as I've had them swallowed mostly whole and they do pose a choking hazard for this breed), I recommend the WestPaw Quizl. As for sizing, we tend to go with the largest options, regardless of the size of the dog... I mean it when I say they have strong jaws! Please do NOT use Antlers as chew toys, it is very common for them to damage teeth, both in puppy deciduous teeth and in adult permanent teeth, or break of chips and cause damage to the esophagus or the stomach. Another toy that's bully proof is the Chuckit Ball! I've found the Chuckit Squeaker Ball is a fan favorite and the squeaker doesn't die as fast as it does in other toys.
***Always exercise caution when introducing a new toy for the first time and please supervise your puppy/dog while they interact with it for the first couple of days.***
What Diet Do You Recommend?
We feed a balanced diet of Prey Model Raw, grinds only. My experience with this breed is that they truly don't chew their food, so we feed pre-mixed, pre-proportioned, pre-ground meals out of slow-feed bowls. Bonus enrichment for them when we re-freeze their meals into their slow-feed bowl. There are benefits to feeding raw and when done right can actually save you money in the long run over a high-quality brand of kibble. We are lucky to have access to a restaurant distributor and can often get our meals to under $2/lb, though we do a "meat sorting weekend" once every 8 weeks where we process through 1000+ lbs of meat for our multiple dog household. We do offer to make dog food/meals for you to purchase (local homes only) from us, if that is something that interests you. If you are not local but are interested in feeding raw, the companies I recommend are Raw Feeding Miami and Primal. I had great luck with Raw Feeding Miami, though Primal is more readily available in natural pet food stores in the freezer section. Be sure that if you are ordering, you are specifically ordering a pre-mixed correct ratio of bone:meat:organ and not JUST meat grinds (click here), this is the important part of feeding raw. Note: Most Primal frozen meals are pre-mixed. Also be aware that Miniature Bull Terriers have VERY strong jaws, and not always strong teeth... So when most information online sources recommend and provide "raw meaty bones" or "recreational chews," they may be too tough for Terrier teeth/jaw strength and I have had my dogs fracture teeth on them before (see above for recommendations for Terrier-tough chew toys). If you are going to be feeding kibble, I would recommend Purina ProPlan (sensitive skin), Fromm, GO!, and Orijen. Keep in mind, also, that my foundation line tends to have sensitivities to beef, so if they are on beef and develop red/yeasty skin or hives, the first place to start would be to switch proteins. :) I've had great luck with Pork, Lamb, Fish, Chicken/Turkey, though some lines have sensitivities to poultry as well.
Do you offer a health guarantee?
Yes! While I will always do my best to increase the odds of bringing the healthiest puppies into this world, genetics always make the rules and some anomalies will pop up from time to time. My contract covers more in-depth information, which we can absolutely go over when we're talking about your specific puppy... The gist is that I am dedicated to my breeding program and if any health concerns pop up, I will do my best to make it right. Whether that be taking a puppy back (which I am willing to do at any time for any reason), or offering the next puppy at a discounted price. We can and will work together on this if any inherited health issues are diagnosed. Please know that I will always be willing to work with you around anything that happens with your Bantam puppy, I care deeply for each one (and their family) as if they were still my own - I am dedicated to being responsible for any and all of the puppies that I create, and that commitment is for life and beyond.
Do you sell dogs with breeding rights?
At this time, no. I am still building my foundation for my line and I am dedicated to creating a solid style and type that is "Bantam" and until I am happy with the consistency of my program, I will not sell dogs with full breeding rights, this goes for males and females. If you are interested in a show/breeding dog, I am happy to discuss the terms of Co-Ownership of a Bantam puppy, otherwise puppies are sold with Limited Registration. I am always willing to discuss further and potentially make exceptions so please feel free to ask if you have any specific questions or concerns regarding breeding dogs.
What is a Co-Ownership? Do you Co-Own all of your puppies?
For all intents and purposes, a co-owned dog is YOUR dog, my name is only listed as secondary owner on their registration certificate. This means that your dog can compete in conformation events and that I can show/handle your dog under owner-handler if at any time we discuss a show that does not work for both of us. The main intent for me to co-own Bantam dogs is to maintain access to be able to breed to dogs that I cannot keep, as the gene pool is already small and the space in my house is limited. If you are willing to commit to the benefit of the future of this breed that we love, I do place priority for people who are willing to work with me on this. I understand that "co-own" can be an intimidating phrase, so please feel free to chat with me on this, I'm an open book! In the end it is up to the owner on whether they are willing to co-own or not, and it has to be decided before the puppy is registered (if you choose not to co-own, your puppy will be registered with limited registration).
What is Limited Registration?
Limited Registration is, in essence, for any owner that wishes for a pet only. You can compete in sports other than conformation with a puppy/dog who is registered with limited, and puppies born of a dog or bitch with limited registration are ineligible to be registered with AKC. If you choose to not have a co-ownership with me, your puppy will be registered with limited registration - this is to protect the breed from dogs who do not meet the breed standard in some way or another and should not be reproduced. This does not mean that if you do not wish to co-own that you will get the "worst quality puppy" of a litter, as above all else I am concerned about the puppy fitting with the person. It does, however, mean that there will be priority placed to a family who may be willing to co-own who meets the same personality criteria to fit with any certain puppy. Please feel free to ask me any clarifying questions you may have, as I understand it can be intimidating to understand the difference. Also be assured that I want good homes no matter what and even if the best home is unwilling to enter into a co-ownership with me, that person is more likely to get the best puppy than an average home who would be willing to co-own.
How Do I Become a Member of the Miniature Bull Terrier Club of America (MBTCA)?
First, check out the info page on the MBTCA website. You will need to complete and submit an application, as well as have a sponsor submit a sponsorship form (contact me if you are interested in applying for membership and we can discuss sponsorship). Please note that with any home accepted for a Bantam puppy, I am more than happy to sponsor you, all you need to do is let me know that you're interested in becoming a member! This breed community is one of the most welcoming groups I've personally ever been a part of, and I would encourage anyone interested in joining to support our breed by becoming an official member! From what I have experienced, a vast majority of our club members are aging, and it's up to the new generation to keep the ball rolling and advocate for our wonderful, beloved breed, and the fastest, easiest way to do so is by getting involved in any way that you can.
How Do I Get Into Dog Sports and Where Do I Start?
That all depends on your interests! I, myself, have dabbled in quite a few different venues and some are more fun for me than others, for all kinds of reasons. For example, I tried an agility foundations class, and while it was enjoyable, I just don't necessarily enjoy that sport specifically. However, sports that really allow the dog to use their natural instincts such as barn hunt, earth dog, even nosework and fastcat, those sports are really fun to me as I truly enjoy watching a dog do what it does naturally! We have also dabbled in sports such as rally, dock diving, weight pull, and others, and all of it is just dependent on what I like about it and what I'm looking to pursue because of my enjoyment and willingness to add it as a time commitment. Why must I explain all of this? In truth, to tell you that, really, it's up to you! There are several resources available at AKC's main web address, and this specific link on Getting Started in Dog Sports and Events, and part of it is doing your own research to find out what's out there! Please feel free to reach out to me directly for some tips and tricks and places to start looking, as it's not always about what you know, but often more about what you don't know and seeking that information can be challenging. See general links below on some of the sports that we have enjoyed competing in:
Conformation
Agility
Rally
Earthdog
FASTCat
Nosework
Barn Hunt
Dock Diving
It's all about having FUN with your dog, if you or your dog(s) are not enjoying it, don't do it. :)